Monday, July 04, 2022
Wick Fowler's Famous Texas Style 2 Alarm Chili Kit
Monday, January 18, 2021
Reproduction Chile Sauce with the Secret Ingredient
I've researched condiment recipes as much as I can. These types of recipes are closely guarded secrets. Think Coca-Cola. They don't want a copy of that getting out.
I've always wanted to make my own chile sauce. Pardon the other writer's misspelling, as it should not be chili.
Some while ago, I had found a cookbook author, one Gisine Lemcke, who ran a cooking school in Brooklyn NY in the late 19th early 20th century.
Below is her recipe. It's use of green tomatoes will impart that slight tang that chile sauce has, and that ketchup does not have. Heinz Chili Sauce sells at a premium to Heinz Ketchup. Now you know why.
Preserving and Pickling
By Gesine Lemcke
New York: Appleton, 1919
https://www.google.com/books/edition/Preserving_and_Pickling/08pDAQAAMAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1
Chili Sauce No 1
24 ripe tomatoes
15 green tomatoes
4 large onions
3 green peppers
4 tablespoonfuls of salt
2 tablespoonfuls sugar
1 quart of vinegar
1-2 tsp. cloves
1-2 tsp. allspice
1-2 tsp. ginger
1-2 tsp. cinnamon
Scald and free the ripe tomatoes from their skin and cut them in small pieces. Cut also the green tomatoes, the peeled onions and the green peppers, put all the ingredients in a kettle boil slowly 1 2 hours.
Mrs. Lemcke, does not describe more than the above. Maybe this will cook to the correct consistency and not need a milling, but keep that in mind. Some bits are acceptable. I imagine Heinz removes the seeds from theirs as that would impart a bitter note.
If preserving with sodium benzoate, remember not more than .1%, that is .001 by weight. Add the benzoate after cooking, but before the pot reaches room temperature.
Saturday, November 17, 2018
Lao Gan Ma Noodles And It's Celebrated Sauce
There are a number of jarred sauces from China which seems to have the notion of family or relatives involved with the name or on the label. One such is, in Chinese:
Guiyang Nanming Laoganma Flavor Food Co., Ltd. was started by a woman named Tao Huabi 陶华碧 and has a fascinating history. She keeps her company unlisted, does not borrow from banks to expand her company and is named in Forbes Magazine as one of wealthiest Chinese. The company names roughly translates into English as The Old Godmother.
The products page. All in Chinese. Untranslated. (And somewhat untranslatable unless you are fluent in both Chinese and cookery.)
As the sauce obtains pride of place in this dish, I giving a double quantity. Sauce your noodles well, and serve the extra for diners who like more of it.
I prefer egg noodles for this dish, but classically it's served on rice noodles.
Protein:
1 pound of flank steak or pork loin, cut into matchsticks
1 tbs of garlic paste
2 tsp of ginger paste
1 tsp light soy
Carbohydrates:
16 oz noodles, chopped into bite size lengths. I cut the package into sixths.
1/2 to 3/4 cup of raw peanuts
1 package of pickled Sichuan vegetable (rinsed in water and chopped a little)
2 (or more) gai lan, coarsely chopped (Chinese broccoli)
Sauce:
4 tsp light soy
2 tsp dark soy
1-2 tsp black vinegar
2 tsp sesame oil (Kadoya brand recommended)
2-4 tbs scallions, cut in 1/8 inch slices
2 tsp ginger paste
1 tbs garlic paste
2 tsp white sesame seeds toasted
3 tbs Old Godmother Sauce (or any brand of chile bean sauce or "paste")
5 tbs peanut oil
1 cup cilantro, chopped with stems
Heat a dry skillet and toast the sesame seeds until they darken in color. Remove and reserve to cool. Slice the meat into matchsticks. Neatness doesn't count here too much. If you have a box grater or Microplane, reduce the garlic and ginger to a paste. (I prefer the term mush.) Mix the pastes into the meat and add 1 tsp of light soy, reserve.
Mix the soy sauces, vinegar, sesame oil, preserved vegetable, garlic, ginger, godmother, sesame seeds and scallions in a metal container. Reserve. Metal because hot wok cooking oil will be added shortly.
Heat a 2 quart or larger pot with water to cook the noodles. Add no salt. Use enough water to almost cover all the noodles. Put on high heat, uncovered. When the noodles start to simmer, remove from the heat and drain the noodles in a colander. Reserve.
Heat the wok, add the oil. On low heat, fry the peanuts for 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from the wok and add to the sauce.
Put the heat up to high on the wok. Add more peanut oil, at least 3 tbs. When starting to smoke, add the marinated meat in batches so as to not cool the wok too much. Stir fry and brown some of the meat, when browned remove to a bowl and stir fry the remaining meat. Use the Chinese spade (spatula) tool to remove the browned meat, allowing the oil to drain back to the bottom of the wok.
When all the meat is cooked, pour half of the hot oil into the reserved sauce. It will sizzle for a few seconds. Put the wok back on the heat, and while it is reheating, stir the oil into the sauce using a teaspoon or long handled spoon.
Add the noodles to the wok and stir fry them a few minutes. If some of the noodles brown a little that's excellent. Add the gai lan. Add 2 tbs of water to the wok, stir the noodles and gai lan. Cover for 2 to 3 minutes to steam the gai lan. Remove the wok, add the meat, stir to mix well. Add the sauce and stir again. Recover the wok, put on lowest heat. Wait 5 minutes. Serve with chopped cilanto. Have extra light soy, sesame oil and Sriracha sauce available for diners to help themselves.
Cook's Note: some sauces call themselves sauce others call themselves paste. They all work exactly alike.
Tuesday, December 27, 2016
Run Don't Walk
I post this pix of the exotic Peruvian ají amarillo.
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| Yellow as the Sun |
This is the Los Angeles wholesale produce district.
Pollo a la Brasa, here we come!
Tuesday, November 10, 2015
Huy Fong Sriracha Hot Chili Sauce 35th Anniversary Bottle
After the plant tour, our small group was taken to a gift shop. All the proceeds go to charity. We were all given however, a very unique gift. David Tran's genius has prospered for 35 years and he has made a 35th anniversary bottle of his celebrated Sriracha Hot Chili Sauce. He has never raised the price of his products in those 35 years. To me that is real genius. The bottle says 2015 chili grinding to note it as a vintage year sauce. For what it's worth, sriracha is pronounced: sree ra cha, not like Jack in the Box Clown, saying "siracha". Sri means "beautiful", like Sri Lanka.
| One Of A Kind |
Tuesday, January 06, 2015
Kung Pao Chicken or Shrimp - 四川人宫保鸡丁
For me, Kung Pao Chicken will always be one of the first Chinese dishes I ever ate at a restaurant as an adult, that I remember. As such, my understanding of Kung Pao is based on that, and that alone, until now. I have devoted dozens of hours towards a better recipe. Both what I cook and where I eat it at Chinese take-out joints. See the links below about the chiles. For me, Kung Pao Chicken will always be a Chinese take-out item. You can eat it at the restaurant if you prefer, but it's part of what Chinese-in-America have for take-out or standard restaurant fare.
Although Fuchsia Dunlop has given English readers an authentic look into Kung Pao, I may have come across a little known technique, that is likely to prove to be the making of this dish in as an authentic Chinese Restaurant Take Out style as possible. (If you regularly read Danger! Men Cooking you know I don't often brag.)
Tuesday, December 03, 2013
Fowler's 2 Alarm Chili and Chile con Carne in general (part 1 of ∞ parts)
While shopping at the former closeout discounter: Pic 'n Sav (now Big Lots), there was in the food section several "chili fixins". This, dear reader, is the ONLY time I will use that abomination of the misspelling of chile. The entirety of Latin American and Spain use: chile. 'Nuff said.
The two fixins' were Wick Fowler's 2 Alarm and Carroll Shelby's. The International Chili Society got it's start with Fowler winning and Shelby crying "foul". But never mind the philosophy. We are here to cook. We are here to reproduce greatness.
I must doff my chef's toque to Francis X. Tolbert.
Tolbert, author of A Bowl of Red is a must read for any serious cooker of chile. For there is the true secret ingredient to all chile con carne. That is freshly toasted chiles and spices. The flavor you savor may have the variety of commonly known additions, such as tomato, beans, cheese, raw chopped onion, mustard?, and whatever else the law will allow. Without freshly prepared spices, you come in second place. Don't get me wrong, I buy Fowler's 2 Alarm Kit. It's an easy meal for company. Brown the ground beef, add the tomato sauce, water and spices, simmer 30 minutes. Serve. Fast company food.Having had both Fowler's and Shelby's Kit to mess with and having another gentleman to dine, it was debated and decided that Fowler's has the better flavor. Upon serious consideration of the matter the separate spice packages in Fowler's are a "fresher" flavor than the melange that is Shelby's. And I would like to point out that this is based on logical, objective and scientific reasoning, although you are no longer free to disagree with me, having read thus far.
So here begins an assay and essay into Fowler and his Fixings.
Upon opening a box of 2 Alarm, one is shown 7 (seven) packets of spices.
Chile Powder 48 grams
Onion/Garlic 9.3 grams
Cumin/Oregano 6.1 grams
Paprika 3.4 grams
Salt 8.6 grams
Masa 12 grams
Cayenne 3 grams
Total Weight 90.4 grams
The package must, by law, list the ingredients, by order of weight. Here is that list (October 2016). Chili Pepper, Corn Masa Flour, Salt, Onion, Cumin, Paprika, Red Pepper, Oregano, Garlic. As you can see, the package contradicts the above list. I'll remind you that recipes are chemical theorems. Experimentation is necessary for success. [This paragraph added October 2016].
That is about 3 ounces of spices for 32 ounces of ground beef (drained of fat). It is at this point in our learned Chile Cookery Assay/Essay that I must add a short detour about the current manufacturer of Fowler's Kits. Based in Louisiana (not in Texas) the product is from Reily Food Company. And further punctuating this history is a brief paragraph about the product from . . . "Arban"
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| guajillo? |
"Why?" you ask would you do this when you can buy Fowler's fixins'. Answer: when I started this weblog, I set out that the theme would be a look at the food competitor. The humorously competitive braggart whose "chile is better'n yurs".
The next assay/essay is to how much of the two blended packets there are in each.
Cumin/Oregano - from the aroma, there is more cumin than oregano
Onion/Garlic - from the aroma, more garlic than onion.
And what of the ingredient labeled: "chili powder". While that ingredient could occupy an essay in itself, I will aver that the basic ingredients are:
mild chile to be toasted and ground fresh (such as a blend of ancho and guajillo)
oregano
garlic
salt
black pepper
and here is an approximation of Fowler's ingredients and I have converted the tbs/tsp into approximate grams to make a comparison with what came from the box of Fowler's, above
3 tablespoons chile powder (45 grams)
1 teaspoon oregano (3 grams)
1 teaspoon cumin seed (3 grams)
2 onions, chopped
6 or more cloves garlic, chopped (12 grams)
1 teaspoon salt (5 grams)
1 teaspoon cayenne (3 grams)
1 tablespoon paprika (3 grams)
The full recipe can be seen, here. Scroll down to Fowler's recipe, please.
As chile con carne must be something of an individual taste, and as I have met people (human beings) that cannot abide the flavor of garlic, all I can say is that I have pointed you in the right, true path and the rest is up to you.
Pictured below are the ancho and guajillo chiles. I have done my best to render the color accurately. Even though these chiles are dried, they are fresh, or maybe I should say (ironically) freshly dried. The color of each is distinct with the anchos being black to dark maroon, while the guajillos are dark brown to a slightly lighter maroon color than the anchos.
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| Guajillo and Ancho or Pasilla |
Monday, December 02, 2013
Peppadew Mustard with Malt Vinegar
I had wanted to make some mustard with this brine for some time and yesterday, with Thanksgiving (US Holiday) far behind, I strained the brine and started adding mustard flour.
From the GS Dunn webpage:
Mustard Flour
Mustard flour is achieved by successive grinding and sifting to remove the bran of the mustard seed and produce a fine powder comprising the heart (kernel) of the seed. Mustard flours are used primarily to give mustard flavour to a product and for their functionality as emulsifiers. We have a wide range of flour blends of differing heat and flavour, and we produce many custom blends.
Ground Mustard
Ground mustard is the whole seed ground as a powder (bran and kernel). Our range includes ground yellow, brown and oriental seed plus blends of yellow and oriental. Ground mustard is used as a vegetable protein in meat products, and to produce mustard sauces.
Crushed Mustard Seed
Crushed mustard seeds are exactly that – mustard seeds which have had the outer layer cracked open to expose the flour inside. They are primarily used for appearance and texture in country-style mustards and salad dressings. Yellow, oriental and brown mustard seeds can be crushed, but by far the most popular is the brown which has a good contrast between the yellow interior and the brown exterior of the seed.
Mustard Bran
Mustard Bran is the outer husk of the seed which has been removed during flour production. It is shipped in its raw state, coarse flakes, or it is ground to a fine powder. Yellow bran is highly functional having the ability to hold up to 9 times its weight in water, and is widely used as a natural thickener in sauces.
Deactivated Yellow Mustard
World-wide trends toward a healthier lifestyle prompted us to develop a unique process of enzyme deactivation in a natural, non-chemical environment. Deactivated mustard retains the functional properties of mustard and is used as an emulsifier and protein source in various food applications such as meat products, dressings, mayonnaise, sauces, tomato based products, batters and baked goods.
I added some of the Mustard Flour I had and started adding it to the chile brine. Then I added some malt vinegar, salt, a 1/2 tsp. of sugar and 1-2 tbs. each of yellow and black mustard seeds. Then I added some more mustard flour. When the heated liquid contact the mustard they thicken pretty quick. I stopped as soon as I could as I like spicy mustard. I left the pot on the porch to cool overnight and bottled the next day.
I know this isn't a recipe with quantities, but it's better if you adjust the flavors and thickness to your own liking.
Wednesday, September 26, 2012
CONAPROCH - Recipes From the Chile Grower's Cooperative
The URL for the recipes is:
http://conaproch.blogspot.com/2012/09/conaproch-recipes-of-mexican-chile.html
There you will see recipes for stuffing jalapenos with sardines, tuna or cheese, Negra La Salsa,
and:
ENTREMESES Y SALSAS
Chiles jalapeños rellenos
Crema de queso, pimiento y cebollita china
Negra la salsa
Rollitos poblanos
Salsa borracha
Salsa de rajas para arroz blanco
Salsa de tomatillo con chiles cascabel y guajillo
Salsa sinaloense
ENSALADAS Y ADEREZOS
Aderezo de pimientos rojos
Ensalada de chiles estilo sonora
Ensalada de pimientos
Ensalada de pollo y pimiento
Ensalada mexicana
Ensalada verde
SOPAS Y PASTAS
Arroz con espinacas
Caldo tlalpeño
Crema de chile poblano
Espagueti verde
Huatape de camarón
Lentejas a la mexicana
Sopa azteca
Sopa de hongos
CARNES:
Albóndigas en salsa de chipotle
Carne a la tampiqueña
Cuete verde
Chiles en nogada tradicionales
Chiles rellenos de carne
Lomo endiablado
Mole de olla
Pozole colorado
Pozole verde
Puntas de filete a la norteña
Tortas ahogadas
AVES:
Alitas en salsa roja
Barbacoa de pollo al chipotle
Mole poblano
Pavo enchileanchado
Pechugas rellenas de pimientos y queso
Pollo al chipotle
Pollo con rajas de chile poblano
PESCADOS Y MARISCOS:
Bacalao en salsa de pimiento morrón
Camarones rancheros
Camarones en escabeche
Escabeche de camarón
VEGETARIANOS:
Chiles rojos rellenos de queso blanco
Enchiladas de pipián
Enchiladas chiapanecas
Rajas de chile con asadero
Souflé de pimiento, queso gruyere y cebolla
POSTRES
Chiles fingidos
Paté de cacahuate al chile
Saturday, June 16, 2012
Peppadew - A Chile From South Africa
Anyway: here is an easy way to get them where you are.
My local market sells the Peppadew in a brine. It is salty-sweet-hot, and I like to chop some up for sandwiches.






