Dr. Kitchener's Curry Powder

This essay into Kitchener's Curry Powder and recipe is and must be a work-in-progress.

Per the wiki entry:

William Kitchiner M.D. (1775–1827) was an optician, inventor of telescopes, amateur musician and exceptional cook. His name was a household word during the 19th century, and his Cook’s Oracle was a bestseller in England and America. Unlike most food writers of the time he cooked the food himself, washed up afterwards, and performed all the household tasks he wrote about. He travelled around with his portable cabinet of taste, a folding cabinet containing his mustards and sauces. He was also the creator of Wow-Wow sauce. 

The partial title of his work is:

Apicius redivivus : or, The cook's oracle: wherein especially the art of composing soups, sauces, and flavouring essences is made so clear and easy ... being six hundred receipts, the result of actual experiments instituted in the kitchen of a physician, for the purpose of composing a culinary code for the rational epicure  . . . 

Using Google to find his seminal: The Cook's Oracle I read his recipe as the edition from 1822. It omits the cinnamon from the 1817 edition. One wonders about this omission. And in two other editions the ingredients vary. If you have a local library that has a differing list of ingredients or instructions, please add them via the Comments Section, below. I will amend this post and credit you for your help.

The Cook's Oracle: Containing Receipts for Plain Cookery on the Most ...
By William Kitchiner (1822 edition)

Cheap Curry Powder. (No. 455.)
Dry and reduce the following Spices, &c. to a fine powder . . .

3 ozs. coriander seed
3 ozs. turmeric powder
1 oz black peppercorns
1 oz. mustard seed
1 oz ginger powder
1/2 oz. lesser cardamoms
1/4 oz. chile pepper (hot) original calls for Cayenne the only one available in the 1830's
1/4 oz. cumin seed

To which I add: toast the spices, except the turmeric and ginger. Grind them into a fine powder, mix in the turmeric and ginger. put in a jar with a cap.

The Doctor continues:

Those who are fond of curry sauces may steep 3 ozs. of this in a quart (40 ozs. British) vinegar or white wine for 10 days.

* * * 

The next list if from the 1817 ed. at Hathi Trust, and adds cinnamon.

4 ozs. coriander seed
3 ozs. turmeric
1 oz black pepper
1 oz ginger
1 oz lesser cardamoms
1/4 oz cayenne
1/4 oz cinnamon

Lastly the 1829 edition gives:

Put the following ingredients in a cool oven all night --and the next morning pound them in a marble mortar and rub them through a fine sieve.

3 oz coriander seed
3 oz turmeric
1 oz black pepper
1 oz mustard
1 oz ginger
1/2 oz allspice
1/2 oz lesser cardamoms
1/4 oz cumin seed

substituting allspice for cinnamon?

A brief word about lesser cardamom.

Handbook of Spices, Seasonings, and Flavorings, Second Edition - By Susheela Raghavan

"There are two type of cardamom, true, green or lesser cardamom, and false or greater cardamom. There are many grades of true or green cardamom, depending on their origins. The cheaper or false cardamom is from Nepal, Vietnam, West Africa, and Bengal. It is bigger and dark brown or blackish brown with a very different flavor profile from true cardamom.

Scientific Names(s): True or "lesser" cardamom: elettaria cardamomum (Malabar, Myster' false or "greater" cardamom: Amomum (A) or Afromomum subalatum ...

If you buy the green cardamom pods, break them open and discard the pod. The seeds, smaller than a mustard seed are black. Do not confuse this with the "greater" cardamom, above.

Lastly from:

An Olla Podrida: Or, Scraps, Numismatic, Antiquarian, and Literary, Volume 2  By Richard Sainthill

"INDIAN AND ENGLISH CURRIES: OR, HAJI ALI versus DR. KITCHENER.

When I resided in London, during my younger days, I had Oriental friends; so I became an eater and consequently a lover of curries. Dining with an Eastern in my late visit to London, curry very naturally became a topic of conversation, though not on the hospitable board; and I mentioned that, since 1823, I had got my curry-powder compounded at Apothecaries' Hall from Dr. Kitchener's "Cook's Oracle," page 363, Receipt 455 (3rd edition, 1821). And on my return to Cork I sent my good friend a specimen sample of the curry, and the following copy of the receipt from which it was compounded, and in return received from him a receipt how curry is made in India: on submitting which to "the authorities" who rule "the stew-pan" in my kitchen, I was informed that they had always added onions and half a lemon to Dr. Kitchener's curry-powder, agreeably to his instructions for "curries" at p. 395, No. 497.

I shall therefore now copy Dr. Kitchener's receipt for making the curry-powder, and instructions for dressing curry. And our Madam Soyers of middle life, comparing, contrasting, and weighing the Indian with the English components and manipulation, may add increased excellency to this attractive dish; and which doing, my labours of transcription will be well and amply repaid.

"Curry Powder (No. 455).

"Dry and reduce the following spices, &c. to a fine powder:—
"Coriander seed, three ounces.
"Turmeric, three ounces.
"Black pepper, one ounce.
"Ginger, one ounce.
"Lesser cardamoms, one ounce.
 a quarter ounce of each:
"Cayenne pepper,
"Cinnamon,                
"Cummin seed.

"Thoroughly pound and mix these together, and keep them in a well-stopped bottle." "

I see the addition of the lemon as essential. One may prefer the Key Lime and I wouldn't quibble about that. And no curry is made without onions and I'm leaning towards making mine with the addition of onion powder. That is to say that the curry powder may be dry rubbed on the meat or fish and then introduced into the hot oil or soup broth. More curry powder being added if desired.

Sourdough Pancakes La Salle

24 May 2014 - If you have previously made this recipe and not liked it, I apologize. I have learned more since I first put it online and now have a perfected recipe. Some credit goes to Louis P. De Gouy and his Gold Cook Book for insights about Sourdough work. 

Sourdough Starter

4 potatoes - for the cooking water - make mashed or home fries - reserve the liquid

Boil the 'taters and use for a thickener in a Vinaigrette or for hashed browns.

In a large bowl, stir in the flour into the reserved potato water to make a thin batter. A little thicker than milk. Compare the viscosity with half-and-half. Thinner is better (batter) as you will add more flour before making pancakes.

Cover the bowl with a cloth and set in a warm place for 2 to 3 days. I use my oven, setting the bowl on a baking sheet and leaving the oven light on. This keeps the internal temperature of the oven around 110° F. Perfect for lactic acid sourdough fermentation.

The night before making pancakes, take 2 cups of the starter, mix in 1 cup of flour, 2 whole eggs, and 2 tbs. of butter melted in microwave. Cover and rest in a warm place overnight (I would use the kitchen counter for this warm place). 

PANCAKES

In the morning, mix in enough water to make a medium thick batter and add in the 1 level tsp. of baking soda.

Note: the amount could go as high as 1 1/2 tsp. of baking soda depending on the age of the flour, the strength of the sourdough fermentation at the time you make the batch, etc. I found 1 tbs. the original amount given to be way too much and reduced it to 2 tsp. On making a batch with the reduced amount, I tasted too much of it and have now reduced that amount to 1 tsp. 

 Set aside, covered 10 to 15 minutes. Use a 1/4 cup measure and make pancakes.

To the original potato water and flour slurry, add one cup of flour and one cup of water. Add 1/2 tsp. of salt. Refrigerate for further pancake starter.

Some credit to George L. Herter for preserving this recipe.

Fowler's 2 Alarm Chili and Chile con Carne in general (part 1 of ∞ parts)

While shopping at the former closeout discounter: Pic 'n Sav (now Big Lots), there was in the food section several "chili fixins". This, dear reader, is the ONLY time I will use that abomination of the misspelling of chile. The entirety of Latin American and Spain use: chile. 'Nuff said.

The two fixins' were Wick Fowler's 2 Alarm and Carroll Shelby's. The International Chili Society got it's start with Fowler winning and Shelby crying "foul". But never mind the philosophy. We are here to cook. We are here to reproduce greatness.

I must doff my chef's toque to Francis X. Tolbert. 

 Tolbert, author of A Bowl of Red  is a must read for any serious cooker of chile. For there is the true secret ingredient to all chile con carne. That is freshly toasted chiles and spices. The flavor you savor may have the variety of commonly known additions, such as tomato, beans, cheese, raw chopped onion, mustard?, and whatever else the law will allow. Without freshly prepared spices, you come in second place. Don't get me wrong, I buy Fowler's 2 Alarm Kit. It's an easy meal for company. Brown the ground beef, add the tomato sauce, water and spices, simmer 30 minutes. Serve. Fast company food.

Having had both Fowler's and Shelby's Kit to mess with and having another gentleman to dine, it was debated and decided that Fowler's has the better flavor. Upon serious consideration of the matter the separate spice packages in Fowler's are a "fresher" flavor than the melange that is Shelby's. And I would like to point out that this is based on logical, objective and scientific reasoning, although you are no longer free to disagree with me, having read thus far.

So here begins an assay and essay into Fowler and his Fixings.

Upon opening a box of 2 Alarm, one is shown 7 (seven) packets of spices.

Chile Powder              48   grams
Onion/Garlic              9.3  grams
Cumin/Oregano        6.1  grams
Paprika                        3.4  grams
Salt                               8.6  grams
Masa                            12    grams
Cayenne                        3    grams

Total Weight             90.4 grams

The package must, by law, list the ingredients, by order of weight. Here is that list (October 2016). Chili Pepper, Corn Masa Flour, Salt, Onion, Cumin, Paprika, Red Pepper, Oregano, Garlic. As you can see, the package contradicts the above list. I'll remind you that recipes are chemical theorems. Experimentation is necessary for success. [This paragraph added October 2016].

That is about 3 ounces of spices for 32 ounces of ground beef (drained of fat). It is at this point in our learned Chile Cookery Assay/Essay that I must add a short detour about the current manufacturer of Fowler's Kits. Based in Louisiana (not in Texas) the product is from Reily Food Company. And further punctuating this history is a brief paragraph about the product from . . . "Arban"

guajillo?

What is of note here is the Arban says the recipe changed. I have only known Fowler's Kit fixings without the guajillo chiles in it. Having said that, I have obtained fresh (dried) chiles for my theory of what fixins' should be.

"Why?" you ask would you do this when you can buy Fowler's fixins'. Answer: when I started this weblog, I set out that the theme would be a look at the food competitor. The humorously competitive braggart whose "chile is better'n yurs".

The next assay/essay is to how much of the two blended packets there are in each.

Cumin/Oregano - from the aroma, there is more cumin than oregano

Onion/Garlic - from the aroma, more garlic than onion.

And what of the ingredient labeled: "chili powder". While that ingredient could occupy an essay in itself, I will aver that the basic ingredients are:

mild chile to be toasted and ground fresh (such as a blend of ancho and guajillo) 
oregano
garlic
salt
black pepper

and here is an approximation of Fowler's ingredients and I have converted the tbs/tsp into approximate grams to make a comparison with what came from the box of Fowler's, above

3 tablespoons chile powder  (45 grams)
1 teaspoon oregano (3 grams)
1 teaspoon cumin seed (3 grams)
2 onions, chopped 
6 or more cloves garlic, chopped (12 grams)
1 teaspoon salt (5 grams)
1 teaspoon cayenne (3 grams)
1 tablespoon paprika (3 grams)

The full recipe can be seen, here. Scroll down to Fowler's recipe, please.

As chile con carne must be something of an individual taste, and as I have met people (human beings) that cannot abide the flavor of garlic, all I can say is that I have pointed you in the right, true path and the rest is up to you.

Pictured below are the ancho and guajillo chiles. I have done my best to render the color accurately. Even though these chiles are dried, they are fresh, or maybe I should say (ironically) freshly dried. The color of each is distinct with the anchos being black to dark maroon, while the guajillos are dark brown to a slightly lighter maroon color than the anchos. 

Guajillo and Ancho or Pasilla

Peppadew Mustard with Malt Vinegar

At the risk of seeming cheap, I save the brine my Peppadew chiles come packaged in.

I had wanted to make some mustard with this brine for some time and yesterday, with Thanksgiving (US Holiday) far behind, I strained the brine and started adding mustard flour.

From the GS Dunn webpage:

Mustard Flour
Mustard flour is achieved by successive grinding and sifting to remove the bran of the mustard seed and produce a fine powder comprising the heart (kernel) of the seed. Mustard flours are used primarily to give mustard flavour to a product and for their functionality as emulsifiers. We have a wide range of flour blends of differing heat and flavour, and we produce many custom blends. 

Ground Mustard
Ground mustard is the whole seed ground as a powder (bran and kernel). Our range includes ground yellow, brown and oriental seed plus blends of yellow and oriental. Ground mustard is used as a vegetable protein in meat products, and to produce mustard sauces. 

Crushed Mustard Seed
Crushed mustard seeds are exactly that – mustard seeds which have had the outer layer cracked open to expose the flour inside. They are primarily used for appearance and texture in country-style mustards and salad dressings. Yellow, oriental and brown mustard seeds can be crushed, but by far the most popular is the brown which has a good contrast between the yellow interior and the brown exterior of the seed. 

Mustard Bran
Mustard Bran is the outer husk of the seed which has been removed during flour production. It is shipped in its raw state, coarse flakes, or it is ground to a fine powder. Yellow bran is highly functional having the ability to hold up to 9 times its weight in water, and is widely used as a natural thickener in sauces. 

Deactivated Yellow Mustard

World-wide trends toward a healthier lifestyle prompted us to develop a unique process of enzyme deactivation in a natural, non-chemical environment. Deactivated mustard retains the functional properties of mustard and is used as an emulsifier and protein source in various food applications such as meat products, dressings, mayonnaise, sauces, tomato based products, batters and baked goods. 

I added some of the Mustard Flour I had and started adding it to the chile brine. Then I added some malt vinegar, salt, a 1/2 tsp. of sugar and 1-2 tbs. each of yellow and black mustard seeds. Then I added some more mustard flour. When the heated liquid contact the mustard they thicken pretty quick. I stopped as soon as I could as I like spicy mustard. I left the pot on the porch to cool overnight and bottled the next day.

I know this isn't a recipe with quantities, but it's better if you adjust the flavors and thickness to your own liking.