Showing posts with label wine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wine. Show all posts

Sunday, July 27, 2014

Mustard Recipes From the Late 19th early 20th Centuries

These recipes are taken from a commercial source. The quantities are for commerce and I have no idea how to scale them down. So, if you have a lot of friends to give gifts to, this is for you. Where dram weights are given, know 1 dram (drachm) is 1.77 gram weight equivalent.

All recipes should stand for 10 minutes once the mustard is mixed with the liquid. Cooking or heating decreases the strength of the final product.

A hand mill in case you want to make mustard.



Gumpoldskirchner Must Mustard
—Evaporate 30 quarts of freshly pressed wine-must to one-half its volume over a moderate fire, dissolve in it 5 lbs. of sugar, and strain the whole over 2 or 3 roots of horseradish cut in thin slices. Then add in the form of fine powder, cardamoms 0.35 oz., nutmeg 0.35 oz., cloves 0.63 oz., cinnamon 1 oz., ginger 1 oz., mustard seed, ground and freed from oil, brown 6 lbs. and white 11 lbs. Grind the whole several times in a mill and strain.

Gumpoldskirchner is a city in Eastern Austria. Our ancient fathers had nothing to waste, so if the grapes didn't get enough water, or too much water, or not enough sun, or too much sun and would never make good wine, the "must" or expressed grape juice, prior to it's fermenting, was used. Here, to make a fabulous mustard. Gumpoldskirchner wine always has these two grape varieties Zierfandler and Rotgipfler.  

Moutard des Jesuits.—Make a paste of 12 sardines and 280 capers and stir it into 53 ozs. of boiling vinegar, and mix with it ground mustard-seed freed from oil, brown 5 1/2 ozs. and white 14 1/2 ounces.

Freed from oil means, mustard seeds, de-hulled, ground, pressed to extract the mustard oil, and then dried to a powder, reground, packaged for commerce. The best is Mustard Flour. Flour makes a creamy smooth mustard. I always wonder about the "12 sardines and 280 capers". It would be a nuisance to count them.

French Mustard.—Ground mustard 2 lbs., and 1/2 oz. each of fresh parsley and tarragon, both cut up fine, are thoroughly mixed together; further 1 clove of garlic, also add, cut up very fine, 12 salted anchovies. Grind the mixture very fine, add the required must and 1 oz. of pulverized common salt, and for further grinding dilute with water. To evaporate the water after grinding the mustard, heat an iron red-hot and cool it off in the mixture, and then add wine-vinegar of the best quality.

Salted anchovies would be reconstituted in the water or vinegar, prior to grinding for use. I find them easy to separate and remove the spine bones. These bones are so tiny. If you have a good food processor you could grind them without the labor of removing the spines.

Salted anchovies are dried anchovies and available at Asian Supermarkets. I have made this, using an 8" piece of rebar. It's nearly impossible to get the rebar hot enough. When I can, I'll have a metal worker (that's blacksmith) fashion a wrought iron poker with a spade end for this recipe.

Ordinary Mustard.—I. Stir gradually 1 pint of good white wine into 8 ozs. of ground mustard-seed, add a pinch of pulverized cloves, and let the whole boil over a moderate fire. Then add a small lump of white sugar, and let the mixture boil up at once.

Ordinary Mustard.—II. Pour 1/2 pint of boiling wine-vinegar over 8 ozs. of ground mustard-seed in an earthen pot, stir the mixture thoroughly, then add some cold vinegar, and let the pot stand over night in a warm place. The next morning add 1/2 lb. of sugar, 3/4 drachm of pulverized cinnamon, 1/2 drachm of pulverized cloves, 1 1/4 drachms of pepper, some cardamom and nutmeg, half the rind of a lemon and the necessary quantity of vinegar. The mustard is now ready, and is kept in pots tied up with bladder.

Ordinary Mustard.—III. Pound to a paste in a mortar the flesh of a salt herring, and 2 ozs. of capers, and mix this with 2 ozs. of pulverized white sugar and 13 ozs. of ground mustard-seed; then pour 1 3/4 pints of boiling wine vinegar over it, stir, and let the whole stand near a fire for several hours. Finally add 3/4 pint of boiling vinegar, stir thoroughly and pour the mustard into glass bottles.

Frankfort Mustard.—Mix 1 lb. of white mustard-seed, ground, a like quantity of brown mustard-seed, 8 ozs. of pulverized sugar, 1 oz. of pulverized cloves, 2 ozs. of allspice, and compound the mixture with white-wine or wine-vinegar.

Wine Mustard.—Ground mustard-seed, white, 23 ozs., brown 12 ozs., common salt 2 3/4 ozs., wine vinegar 8 1/2 ozs., a like quantity of white wine, and water 16 ozs.

Aromatic or Hygienic Mustard.—Ground mustard-seed, white, 23 ozs., brown 12 ozs., wine vinegar 17 1/2 ozs. Extract allspice 0.35 oz., cassia, white pepper, and ginger, of each 0.17 oz., with alcohol 1 1/2 ozs., and water 8 1/2 ozs., add 3 1/2 ozs. of common salt and a like quantity of sugar, filter the whole and add it to the mustard.

Düsseldorf Mustard.—Ground mustard-seed freed from oil, brown 3 ozs., white 8 1/2 ozs., boiling water 26 1/2 ozs., wine  vinegar 18 ozs, cinnamon 0.17 oz., cloves 0.1 oz., sugar 11 ozs., white wine 18 ozs.

Sour Düsseldorf Mustard.—Fill 2 casks with vinegar, steep in one of the casks 2 lbs. of origan [sic! oregano] leaves, and in the other an ordinary bucket full of onions cut up, and let them digest for 2 days. Then bruise 44 lbs. of white mustard-seed and 66 lbs. of brown; put this in a vat and add 1 lb. of pulverized cloves, 1 1/2. lbs. of pulverized coriander seed, and 4 1/2 gallons of each of the prepared vinegars. Stir the whole thoroughly and grind it twice in a mill. To every gallon of this add and mix thoroughly with it, 1 lb. of salt dissolved in 1 quart of the onion vinegar.

Sweet Kremser Must-mustard.—Ground mustard-seed, brown 10 lbs., white 5 lbs., is intimately mixed with 3 lbs. of freshly-pressed must, and boiled down to the desired consistency.

Sour Kremser Must-mustard.—Boil to a stiff paste 15 lbs. of brown mustard ground, and 5 lbs. of white mustard ground,  together with 4 lbs. of must, and after cooling stir in 4 lbs. of vinegar.

Moutarde de maille.—Cut up 8 ozs. of fresh tarragon leaves without the stems, 2 1/2 ozs. of basil, 2 ozs. of bay leaves and 4 ozs. of rocambole (a spice of garlic). Place these ingredients in a glass alembic, pour 2 1/2 quarts of strong wine-vinegar over them, and, to allow the vapors to escape, tie up the mouth of the alembic with a piece of perforated moist bladder. Place the alembic upon hot sand for 4 days, then filter the fluid first through linen and then through blotting paper. Add to this aromatic vinegar, 1 oz. of common salt, then stir it into a thick paste with ground brown mustard-seed, and keep the the mustard in earthenware jars tied up with bladder.

Moutarde aux épices is prepared by extracting 18 ozs. of tarragon leaves, 7 ozs. of basil, 1 3/4 ozs. of bay leaves, 3 1/2 ozs. of white pepper, 1 3/4 ozs. of cloves, and 0.35 oz. of mace with vinegar and mixing the extract with mustard prepared in the ordinary manner from ground mustard-seed, brown 44 lbs., white 11 lbs., and vinegar 8 1/2 lbs.

Moutarde Aromatisce.—Boil ground mustard-seed, brown 22 lbs., white 44 lbs, with 9 lbs. of vinegar, and add oil of tarragon 1 oz., oil of thyme 1/2 oz., oil of mace 0.35 oz., and oil of cloves 0.17 oz., all previously dissolved in very strong vinegar.

English Mustard.—Ground mustard-seed 9 lbs., wheat flour 9 ozs., common salt 1 3/4 lb., cayenne pepper 2 3/4 ozs., and as much vinegar and water as required.

Four Thieves Vinegar.—Said to have been invented during a great plague in Marseilles, (some say during the London plague,) by four thieves, who employed it to prevent infection during their predatory visits to the houses of the dead or absent.

Macerate cloves, sage, rosemary, rue, allspice, calamus, caraway, nutmegs, of each one ounce, in two gallons of strong vinegar. Then add half an ounce of camphor.

Another Way.—Wormwood, rosemary, sage, peppermint, rue, each 2 ounces, lavender blossoms, 6 ounces, calamus, cinnamon, cloves, nutmegs.

A Third Method.—Rosemary, sage, peppermint, cloves, of each 4 ounces; zedoary and angelica roots, of each 1 ounce. Macerate for several days in half a gallon of vinegar. Then press and filter.

Tarragon Vinegar.—Soak for several days 1 pound of the herb, (Artemesia Dracunculus,) before blossoming, in from 1 to 2 gallons of very strong vinegar. Press out the liquid and filter. The vinegar may be made extemporaneously by dropping a few drops of the oil of tarragon upon a lump of sugar, and adding to the vinegar. For table use the vinegar should not be too strongly flavored with the herb.

Vinaigre aux fines herbes.—Tarragon, (herb,) 12 ounces; basil, (herb,) 4 ounces; laurel leaves, 4
ounces; shallots, (Allium Ascalonicum,) 2 ounces: are suffered to stand for a few days in 1/2 a gallon of strong vinegar. Press and filter. A little added to table vinegar improves it.

Vinaigre d' la Bavigote.—Tarragon, (herb;) 12 ounces; laurel leaves, 6 ounces; anchovies, 6 ounces; capers, 6 ounces; shallots, 4 ounces. Macerate for several days in 1/2 gallon of strong vinegar, then press and filter. Used as addition to table vinegars.

Ravigote is probably what is intended here. It's a typo.

Mustard vinegar is also employed as an addition to vinegar, and is made by soaking from 8 to 12 ounces of black mustard in 1 quart of strong vinegar. Press and filter.

Raspberry vinegar.—Ripe berries are pressed and suffered to stand for several days, after which the clear juice may be separated. To every pound of  berries add from 6 to 8 quarts of strong vinegar, and press after 24 hours. Sweetened with sugar is used as an agreeable summer drink.

Rose, orange blossom, neroli, bergamot, and clove vinegars, may be made by adding the respective oils to vinegar. They may be added to the last wash in the quick process to yield a finely flavored vinegar.

Fumigating vinegar.—Oils of cloves, 1 1/3 drachms; bergamot, 3 drachms; cassia, 1 drachm; balsam of Peru, 2 drachms; tincture of musk, 1 drachm. Add 24 ounces of 80 per cent. alcohol, and enough concentrated acetic acid* to keep the oils in solution.

*Acetic acid of 35-30% acid strength. [Available at some Asian supermarkets.]

Aromatic vinegar.—Oils of cloves, 3 drachms; lavender, 2 drachms; lemon, 2 drachms; bergamot, 1 drachm; thyme, 1 drachm; cinnamon, 30 drops. Dissolved in 6 ounces of concentrated acetic acid.

Another.—Equal parts of concentrated acetic acid and acetic ether, with a few drops of oil of cloves.

Oreme de vinaigre.—Oils of bergamot, 3 ounces; lemon, 2 ounces; neroli, 1 ounce; mace, 1/4 of an ounce; cloves, 1/4 of an ounce. Dissolve in two  pounds of strong alcohol, and 5 pounds concentrated acetic acid.

Camp Vinegar—Take four ounces of sliced garlic, two ounces of soy, two ounces of walnut catsup, one ounce of cayenne pepper, one ounce of black pepper, fifteen chopped anchovies, one gallon of vinegar, one drachm of cochineal. Infuse for one month, and strain.

I guess ketchup might work here as well. Cochineal is red food coloring.


French Mustard.
Take 3 lbs. of ground mustard-seed (black), 3 lbs. of ground mustard (yellow), 1 1/2 gallons strong boiling hot vinegar; mix the whole together and let it stand 12 hours, and then add 3 ounces of ground allspice, 1 ounce ground ginger, 6 ounces ground rock-salt, 3 ounces ground cinnamon, 1 ounce ground cloves; mix the whole well together, and add as much vinegar as will make to the proper consistency.

Sunday, April 07, 2013

Chinese Char Siu Barbecue

After studying a number of recipes for the barbecued pork dish Char Siu (my preferred spelling), I decided to try to make some. 

So, welcome to my politically correct, Chinese Cultural Revolution approved recipe.


My first thought was that recipes (in English) call for pork shoulder. The pork shoulder was too much a westernized idea. The Chinese would use firmer meat for this dish and that meant using pork belly. For some strange reason, here in the States, when a recipe (usually old ones) calls for pork belly they use either: uncured bacon or green bacon to signify raw pork belly. Whether those two expressions are "of commerce" or whether they were the only way the cookbook authors could think to describe pork belly that is uncured, un-smoked and raw is not within the scope of this article. Both always and confusingly using the word 'bacon', where 'pork belly' is more effectively descriptive. (e.g., scallions versus green onions versus spring onions)


I also saw a recipe that called for Moutai liquor as one of the ingredients. I must back track a little here. My favorite place in Chinatown is Sam Woo Barbecue. While shopping yesterday, I saw a San Woo Barbecue - not the same. Sam Woo's is pretty well known, and while I don't like a lot on their menu, the barbecued pork is delightful. And I'm certain they use the Moutai in their bbq, but I cannot prove that beyond a shadow of a doubt. They also have lop cheung . . .  a story for another day. 


I had to find the Moutai and guessed that the Wing Hop Fung supermarket would be my source for this stuff. They are at least 12 Chinese aunties working at any one time there and none speak English. So, when I incorrectly asked for Mai Tai, I was told they had none, Then, speaking with the only English speaking woman in the place, I asked for rose liquor. She pointed to the shelf where all the liquors are and corrected my pronounciation. I walked over to find that the words were all in Chinese. Another auntie walked by and I asked (this time pronouncing it correctly) MOW (rhymes with wow) TOY. She showed me a bottle. And at only $130 (US dollars) it looked like a bargain . . . Fortunately, they had a $10 and a $15 dollar bottle of it and that's more appropriate for cooking. Mind you, this is for a 375 mL bottle (half a fifth).



Like WOW!
So with all the ingredients in hand I made up the sauce-marinade.  Divided the sauce and kept half for dipping or using on the rice.

Ingredients:


¾ lb pork belly
6 cloves garlic as mush
3 tablespoons cooked oil (see below for explanation)

Char Siu Sauce:

4 ½ tablespoons maltose
4 ½ tablespoons honey
4 ½ tablespoons hoisin sauce
4 ½ tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoon Moutai (贵州茅台酒)
9 dashes white pepper
9 drops red food coloring (Optional)
1 ½ teaspoon five-spice powder
1 ½ teaspoon sesame oil
[ Added November 23, 2015  In continued research into this Chinese specialty dish, I have read another recipe that add the following:
1 tbs yellow bean paste
1 tbs red fermented tofu (hot or not, your choice)
1 tbs oyster sauce
the foregoing three ingredients are for 1 1/2 pounds of pork, adjust accordingly, please.]

I have never been able to buy pork belly in 16 ounce pieces. Almost without exception the slab I can buy in the markets is between 1 3/4 and 2 1/4 pounds. So I had to adjust the recipe accordingly. Also, my pal does not like to eat rice without a sauce and as many people like extra sauce for their pork and rice, I decided to triple the quantity. So the above list is how I made it. After adding the sauce ingredients and boiling them up three times, I removed the sauce pan from the heat. After a few minutes, the entire kitchen became fragrant with the Moutai. At 52% alcohol (or 104 proof) the stuff packs a wallop. It would have packed a wallop in my wallet if I'ld had any while in Chinatown. The $130 bottle of Moutai is about 80 years old. The minimum age is 15 years. The red food coloring, while optional is a real help and culturally, red is the symbol of good luck (lunch?) in Chinese.


I cut the belly into four pieces, trying to make the pieces as evenly shaped as possible. In the photograph, you can see that two slices are much bigger. That is how the belly comes. Thicker at one end.



Marinating
Above, pork having marinated overnight.


While the sauce was cooling I mushed the garlic, sliced the pork and rubbed the garlic onto the fatty side of the meat. After the sauce cools, add it to the meat. I used a stainless steel bowl. After adding the sauce I added the cooked oil. The cooked oil is a trick I learned about many years ago. When deep frying, allow the hot oil to cool (overnight?), and strain it into a jar or bottle. Cap tightly. The cooked oil has a delicious flavor. It may not be good for cooking again, but as part of the marinade it matters and I'm not throwing food out.


When ready, cook your rice. Even though I often add chicken bouillon powder to the boiling water, this time I left it plain.


Preheat your barbecue grill for 10 to 15 minutes and wipe the excess sauce/marinade off the meat into your bowl as you will baste the meat with the leftover sauce the meat sat in. Cook the meat for 7 ½ minutes on each side, flipping the meat once. Start with the fatty side up. As the heat warms it, the fat will melt and bath the meat to help keep it moist.


After the 15 minute total cooking time, cover the cooked meat and allow it to rest 10 minutes. Whence cut it into bit size cubes and serve over white rice. Extra sauce optional.





Cook's Note: some recipes cut the pork into mouthfuls before cooking. This is done by threading the meat cubes on skewers. It would cook the meat a little faster and is certainly more of a traditional way of serving this dish, the skewers being placed on top a mound of rice. I would like my bbq as bites to see on top of the rice. Minced scallions on top. There is no wrong way.