Sunday, July 27, 2014

Mustard Recipes From the Late 19th early 20th Centuries

These recipes are taken from a commercial source. The quantities are for commerce and I have no idea how to scale them down. So, if you have a lot of friends to give gifts to, this is for you. Where dram weights are given, know 1 dram (drachm) is 1.77 gram weight equivalent.

All recipes should stand for 10 minutes once the mustard is mixed with the liquid. Cooking or heating decreases the strength of the final product.

A hand mill in case you want to make mustard.

Gumpoldskirchner Must Mustard
—Evaporate 30 quarts of freshly pressed wine-must to one-half its volume over a moderate fire, dissolve in it 5 lbs. of sugar, and strain the whole over 2 or 3 roots of horseradish cut in thin slices. Then add in the form of fine powder, cardamoms 0.35 oz., nutmeg 0.35 oz., cloves 0.63 oz., cinnamon 1 oz., ginger 1 oz., mustard seed, ground and freed from oil, brown 6 lbs. and white 11 lbs. Grind the whole several times in a mill and strain.

Gumpoldskirchner is a city in Eastern Austria. Our ancient fathers had nothing to waste, so if the grapes didn't get enough water, or too much water, or not enough sun, or too much sun and would never make good wine, the "must" or expressed grape juice, prior to it's fermenting, was used. Here, to make a fabulous mustard. Gumpoldskirchner wine always has these two grape varieties Zierfandler and Rotgipfler.  

Moutard des Jesuits.—Make a paste of 12 sardines and 280 capers and stir it into 53 ozs. of boiling vinegar, and mix with it ground mustard-seed freed from oil, brown 5 1/2 ozs. and white 14 1/2 ounces.

Freed from oil means, mustard seeds, de-hulled, ground, pressed to extract the mustard oil, and then dried to a powder, reground, packaged for commerce. The best is Mustard Flour. Flour makes a creamy smooth mustard. I always wonder about the "12 sardines and 280 capers". It would be a nuisance to count them.

French Mustard.—Ground mustard 2 lbs., and 1/2 oz. each of fresh parsley and tarragon, both cut up fine, are thoroughly mixed together; further 1 clove of garlic, also add, cut up very fine, 12 salted anchovies. Grind the mixture very fine, add the required must and 1 oz. of pulverized common salt, and for further grinding dilute with water. To evaporate the water after grinding the mustard, heat an iron red-hot and cool it off in the mixture, and then add wine-vinegar of the best quality.

Salted anchovies would be reconstituted in the water or vinegar, prior to grinding for use. I find them easy to separate and remove the spine bones. These bones are so tiny. If you have a good food processor you could grind them without the labor of removing the spines.

Salted anchovies are dried anchovies and available at Asian Supermarkets. I have made this, using an 8" piece of rebar. It's nearly impossible to get the rebar hot enough. When I can, I'll have a metal worker (that's blacksmith) fashion a wrought iron poker with a spade end for this recipe.

Ordinary Mustard.—I. Stir gradually 1 pint of good white wine into 8 ozs. of ground mustard-seed, add a pinch of pulverized cloves, and let the whole boil over a moderate fire. Then add a small lump of white sugar, and let the mixture boil up at once.

Ordinary Mustard.—II. Pour 1/2 pint of boiling wine-vinegar over 8 ozs. of ground mustard-seed in an earthen pot, stir the mixture thoroughly, then add some cold vinegar, and let the pot stand over night in a warm place. The next morning add 1/2 lb. of sugar, 3/4 drachm of pulverized cinnamon, 1/2 drachm of pulverized cloves, 1 1/4 drachms of pepper, some cardamom and nutmeg, half the rind of a lemon and the necessary quantity of vinegar. The mustard is now ready, and is kept in pots tied up with bladder.

Ordinary Mustard.—III. Pound to a paste in a mortar the flesh of a salt herring, and 2 ozs. of capers, and mix this with 2 ozs. of pulverized white sugar and 13 ozs. of ground mustard-seed; then pour 1 3/4 pints of boiling wine vinegar over it, stir, and let the whole stand near a fire for several hours. Finally add 3/4 pint of boiling vinegar, stir thoroughly and pour the mustard into glass bottles.

Frankfort Mustard.—Mix 1 lb. of white mustard-seed, ground, a like quantity of brown mustard-seed, 8 ozs. of pulverized sugar, 1 oz. of pulverized cloves, 2 ozs. of allspice, and compound the mixture with white-wine or wine-vinegar.

Wine Mustard.—Ground mustard-seed, white, 23 ozs., brown 12 ozs., common salt 2 3/4 ozs., wine vinegar 8 1/2 ozs., a like quantity of white wine, and water 16 ozs.

Aromatic or Hygienic Mustard.—Ground mustard-seed, white, 23 ozs., brown 12 ozs., wine vinegar 17 1/2 ozs. Extract allspice 0.35 oz., cassia, white pepper, and ginger, of each 0.17 oz., with alcohol 1 1/2 ozs., and water 8 1/2 ozs., add 3 1/2 ozs. of common salt and a like quantity of sugar, filter the whole and add it to the mustard.

Düsseldorf Mustard.—Ground mustard-seed freed from oil, brown 3 ozs., white 8 1/2 ozs., boiling water 26 1/2 ozs., wine  vinegar 18 ozs, cinnamon 0.17 oz., cloves 0.1 oz., sugar 11 ozs., white wine 18 ozs.

Sour Düsseldorf Mustard.—Fill 2 casks with vinegar, steep in one of the casks 2 lbs. of origan [sic! oregano] leaves, and in the other an ordinary bucket full of onions cut up, and let them digest for 2 days. Then bruise 44 lbs. of white mustard-seed and 66 lbs. of brown; put this in a vat and add 1 lb. of pulverized cloves, 1 1/2. lbs. of pulverized coriander seed, and 4 1/2 gallons of each of the prepared vinegars. Stir the whole thoroughly and grind it twice in a mill. To every gallon of this add and mix thoroughly with it, 1 lb. of salt dissolved in 1 quart of the onion vinegar.

Sweet Kremser Must-mustard.—Ground mustard-seed, brown 10 lbs., white 5 lbs., is intimately mixed with 3 lbs. of freshly-pressed must, and boiled down to the desired consistency.

Sour Kremser Must-mustard.—Boil to a stiff paste 15 lbs. of brown mustard ground, and 5 lbs. of white mustard ground,  together with 4 lbs. of must, and after cooling stir in 4 lbs. of vinegar.

Moutarde de maille.—Cut up 8 ozs. of fresh tarragon leaves without the stems, 2 1/2 ozs. of basil, 2 ozs. of bay leaves and 4 ozs. of rocambole (a spice of garlic). Place these ingredients in a glass alembic, pour 2 1/2 quarts of strong wine-vinegar over them, and, to allow the vapors to escape, tie up the mouth of the alembic with a piece of perforated moist bladder. Place the alembic upon hot sand for 4 days, then filter the fluid first through linen and then through blotting paper. Add to this aromatic vinegar, 1 oz. of common salt, then stir it into a thick paste with ground brown mustard-seed, and keep the the mustard in earthenware jars tied up with bladder.

Moutarde aux épices is prepared by extracting 18 ozs. of tarragon leaves, 7 ozs. of basil, 1 3/4 ozs. of bay leaves, 3 1/2 ozs. of white pepper, 1 3/4 ozs. of cloves, and 0.35 oz. of mace with vinegar and mixing the extract with mustard prepared in the ordinary manner from ground mustard-seed, brown 44 lbs., white 11 lbs., and vinegar 8 1/2 lbs.

Moutarde Aromatisce.—Boil ground mustard-seed, brown 22 lbs., white 44 lbs, with 9 lbs. of vinegar, and add oil of tarragon 1 oz., oil of thyme 1/2 oz., oil of mace 0.35 oz., and oil of cloves 0.17 oz., all previously dissolved in very strong vinegar.

English Mustard.—Ground mustard-seed 9 lbs., wheat flour 9 ozs., common salt 1 3/4 lb., cayenne pepper 2 3/4 ozs., and as much vinegar and water as required.

Four Thieves Vinegar.—Said to have been invented during a great plague in Marseilles, (some say during the London plague,) by four thieves, who employed it to prevent infection during their predatory visits to the houses of the dead or absent.

Macerate cloves, sage, rosemary, rue, allspice, calamus, caraway, nutmegs, of each one ounce, in two gallons of strong vinegar. Then add half an ounce of camphor.

Another Way.—Wormwood, rosemary, sage, peppermint, rue, each 2 ounces, lavender blossoms, 6 ounces, calamus, cinnamon, cloves, nutmegs.

A Third Method.—Rosemary, sage, peppermint, cloves, of each 4 ounces; zedoary and angelica roots, of each 1 ounce. Macerate for several days in half a gallon of vinegar. Then press and filter.

Tarragon Vinegar.—Soak for several days 1 pound of the herb, (Artemesia Dracunculus,) before blossoming, in from 1 to 2 gallons of very strong vinegar. Press out the liquid and filter. The vinegar may be made extemporaneously by dropping a few drops of the oil of tarragon upon a lump of sugar, and adding to the vinegar. For table use the vinegar should not be too strongly flavored with the herb.

Vinaigre aux fines herbes.—Tarragon, (herb,) 12 ounces; basil, (herb,) 4 ounces; laurel leaves, 4
ounces; shallots, (Allium Ascalonicum,) 2 ounces: are suffered to stand for a few days in 1/2 a gallon of strong vinegar. Press and filter. A little added to table vinegar improves it.

Vinaigre d' la Bavigote.—Tarragon, (herb;) 12 ounces; laurel leaves, 6 ounces; anchovies, 6 ounces; capers, 6 ounces; shallots, 4 ounces. Macerate for several days in 1/2 gallon of strong vinegar, then press and filter. Used as addition to table vinegars.

Ravigote is probably what is intended here. It's a typo.

Mustard vinegar is also employed as an addition to vinegar, and is made by soaking from 8 to 12 ounces of black mustard in 1 quart of strong vinegar. Press and filter.

Raspberry vinegar.—Ripe berries are pressed and suffered to stand for several days, after which the clear juice may be separated. To every pound of  berries add from 6 to 8 quarts of strong vinegar, and press after 24 hours. Sweetened with sugar is used as an agreeable summer drink.

Rose, orange blossom, neroli, bergamot, and clove vinegars, may be made by adding the respective oils to vinegar. They may be added to the last wash in the quick process to yield a finely flavored vinegar.

Fumigating vinegar.—Oils of cloves, 1 1/3 drachms; bergamot, 3 drachms; cassia, 1 drachm; balsam of Peru, 2 drachms; tincture of musk, 1 drachm. Add 24 ounces of 80 per cent. alcohol, and enough concentrated acetic acid* to keep the oils in solution.

*Acetic acid of 35-30% acid strength. [Available at some Asian supermarkets.]

Aromatic vinegar.—Oils of cloves, 3 drachms; lavender, 2 drachms; lemon, 2 drachms; bergamot, 1 drachm; thyme, 1 drachm; cinnamon, 30 drops. Dissolved in 6 ounces of concentrated acetic acid.

Another.—Equal parts of concentrated acetic acid and acetic ether, with a few drops of oil of cloves.

Oreme de vinaigre.—Oils of bergamot, 3 ounces; lemon, 2 ounces; neroli, 1 ounce; mace, 1/4 of an ounce; cloves, 1/4 of an ounce. Dissolve in two  pounds of strong alcohol, and 5 pounds concentrated acetic acid.

Camp Vinegar—Take four ounces of sliced garlic, two ounces of soy, two ounces of walnut catsup, one ounce of cayenne pepper, one ounce of black pepper, fifteen chopped anchovies, one gallon of vinegar, one drachm of cochineal. Infuse for one month, and strain.

I guess ketchup might work here as well. Cochineal is red food coloring.

French Mustard.
Take 3 lbs. of ground mustard-seed (black), 3 lbs. of ground mustard (yellow), 1 1/2 gallons strong boiling hot vinegar; mix the whole together and let it stand 12 hours, and then add 3 ounces of ground allspice, 1 ounce ground ginger, 6 ounces ground rock-salt, 3 ounces ground cinnamon, 1 ounce ground cloves; mix the whole well together, and add as much vinegar as will make to the proper consistency.