Massachusetts Bay Clam Chowder A.K.A. New England Clam Chowder

When I realized I have not essayed The Clam Chowder, I felt remiss and, Dear Reader, am rectifying the omission.

From
The Gold Cook Book by Louis P. De Gouy 13th Printing, 1960

pages 128-130.

CHOWDERS

Following food trails in quest of food origins is always adventurous and, as often as not, the trail itself comes to an end at a picturesque but totally unexpected source.

Whence comes our chowder—that hot, savory and substantial dish that heartens us on those chill days of early fall and winter? Is chowder an Indian name, like so many others borne by our native samp, the succotash?

No, the trail in quest of chowder origins leads us over the vast waters of the Atlantic, and begins first in the little hamlets and villages of Brittany, famed fishing sea-coast of France. There, in those so-specialized fishing villages, originated a community enterprise in the shape of faire la chaudière, or “prepare the cauldron.”

After a fishing expedition, when the men were back home from the sea with their catches, it became the custom to celebrate with a huge pot or cauldron of soup or stew, to which each manor family contributed some ingredients. Some brought fish, others vegetables, still others seasonings and spices—and everything went into the pot, all together and at once.

[Step number one] In return, each family participated equally in this steaming pot, around which gathered, too, much festivity, quite after our own fashion of a village fair or festival, or perhaps like our first Thanksgiving dinner.

[Step number two] along this interesting trail occurred when many of these French fisher-folk crossed the Atlantic to settle in Newfoundland, bringing, of course, their chaudière with them.

[Step number three] is only a little distance farther on, either in New England or across that narrow link of water called Long Island Sound, each claimed as the original home of the chowder. For by this time the French word meaning “big stew pot” had been contracted and modified into the more Yankeefied “chowder.”

Naturally the New Englander, with an abundance of seafood at his very doorstep, continued mightily in the chowder tradition. He made it of fish, he made it of clams he made it of oysters—or he made it of all three, and added other little seasoning tidbits, such as diced salt pork, chopped bacon, thyme and other fragrances out of the spice cabinet. Now and again he added milk—or, still later, and lower down the Middle Atlantic seaboard, he began to add tomatoes. Thus started the famous food controversy, still—if—ever—to be settled, as to whether chowder should be made with tomatoes.

Alas, what crimes have been committed in the name of chowder! Dainty chintz-draped tea rooms, charity bazaars, church suppers, summer hotels, canning factories—all have shamelessly travestied one of America’s noblest institutions; yet while clams and onions last, the chowder shall not die, neither shall it sink into the limbo of denatured, emasculated forgotten things.

Clam chowder, mind you, is not a bisque, not a Parisian potage, not a delicate broth for invalids. It matters not whether you belong to the milk or the water party in the chowder cult—clams and onions and salt pork are the fundamentals on which to concentrate. Much has been said about onions, and much must be said of onions and clams when chowder is in the balance.

MASSACHUSETTS BAY CLAM CHOWDER [281]

Also called New England Clam Chowder

“Take a dozen clams and 1 small onion,” says a certain undeservedly popular cook book, taking the name of clam chowder in vain.

A dozen clams, forsooth! Take 4, or 5 dozen good soft clams, if your family is a small one. Men and women of Rhode Island and Massachusetts Bay never sat down to less than a peck of clams apiece. Then take 6 large onions and ½ pound of the finest salt pork. Cut the pork in half-inch dice and brown them slowly in an iron skillet, then add the sliced onions to the pork fat and let them turn to golden—brown rings, meanwhile wash the live clams, using a brush to get rid of all sand, and heat them slowly in a pan till the shells open. Save the juice, cut off the long necks and remove the coarse membrane, then chop half of the clams, not too finely, and keep the rest whole. Put pork, onions, clam juice, and I quart of boiling water in a kettle, add 3 large peeled tomatoes, 1 bunch of leeks cut finely, 2 stalks of celery, finely minced, 2 young carrots, diced, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, ½ teaspoon of thyme leaves, 2 large bay leaves, I teaspoon of salt, ½ generous teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper, a slight grating of nutmeg, and let the mixture boil up smartly. Then reduce to the simmering point, and put in 3 large potatoes, peeled and cut in neat small dice. Prepare a roux by browning 2 rounded tablespoons of flour in 2 rounded tablespoons of butter, and make it creamy and smooth by stirring in broth from the kettle. Put all the clams into the kettle before the potatoes begin to soften, and simmer slowly until the potatoes are just tender, then stir in the roux and 2 large pilot biscuits coarsely crumbled, and add I tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce and a dash of Tabasco sauce. Serve sizzling hot.

If preferred, omit the tomatoes and add instead 1 cup of scalded sweet cream.

So ends the Master Chef's version of clam chowder. My New England pal, Robert, who turned 90 years old in 2015, informs me that clam chowder, as prepared by his mother, had clams, salt pork, and some potatoes. So let us begin there.

New England Clam Chowder - A Updated  Easy Kitchen Version

51 to 56 ozs. can Clams (and the juice in the can)

46 ozs. can Clam Juice

16 ozs. dry white wine

8 ozs. salt pork

48 ozs. onions (3 pounds)

64 ozs. potatoes (4 pounds)

32 ozs. heavy cream
2 tsp. salt (or to taste) See Note below
1 tsp. white pepper (or to taste)

1 dash of Srichacha Sauce (or your favorite)

2 bouquet garni of thyme, bay leaf and parsley, tied together

Oyster crackers or a sourdough boule

Ingredient Note: Must use fresh bouquet garni ingredients. 

 

Ingredient Note: From The New England clam shack cookbook by Brooke Dojny comes the addition of these ingredients:
1/4 tsp celery salt
1/8 tsp celery seed
1/8 tsp garlic powder

These quantities are for a smaller batch than this recipe calls for. As there will be some dubiousness about the addition of these ingredients, I've leaving the quantities on the light side.

Batterie de Cuisine - 2 large stockpots. Kitchen spoon, soup ladle.

Using a can opener, make two slits on top of the can of clams, one to pour from, the other to allow air to get in to prevent back pressure. I make the slits 180 degrees opposite each other. Add the canned clam juice, wine and bouquet garni to stockpot #1. Cover and bring the pot to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer gently 15 to 20 minutes, covered. This was about 3 quarts of liquid. I simplify the infusing by straining out the bouquet garni ingredients with a strainer. into a separate pot. Saves clean up of the muslin bag.

While the bouqui garni stock is coming to a simmer infusing the clam and wine, do the following work. Slice the salt pork into ⅜ inch diced cubes. In stockpot #2, on medium-low heat, render the salt pork with 1/2 cup of water. Rendering the fat should take about 20 to 30 minutes, depending on how high the flame is and the size of the pot. As the water evaporates, the pork will render it's fat. You can tell when the fat is rendering by the change in the sizzling sound in the pot. Once the cubes are golden brown, remove them with a slotted spoon.

Strain the solids from the (now) clam stock pot #1 into pot #3. Cover and reserve. You may want a hot pad under this pot if there is not enough room on the stove.

Cut the 'taters into bite size cubes add vegetable oil to the rendered fat in pot #2. Raise the heat and add the 'taters. Fry them for about 15 minutes, stirring frequently. When fried, remove to the clam stock pot #1. Cover. 

Add cooking oil to pot #2. Add the sliced onions to pot #2. Raise the heat to high for up to 5 to 7 minutes. Stir like a madman. Wilt the onions, but do not color them. When the onions are wilted, add the bouquet garni infused clam juices and the 'taters.  Stir well. Bring the pot to a boil, lower to a simmer, covered, for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes check the potatoes for doneness, and the stock for salt. Correct seasonings. Add white pepper, clams and liquid from the can, salt pork, cream and hot sauce. Return to the lowest of simmers. Taste for salt and pepper again. Cover to heat through, 5 to 7 minutes.

Serve with Oyster Crackers and minced parsley. To be fancy, serve the chowder in a sourdough boule. Slice the top, pull out the inner bread, leaving a bowl and serve the chowder in it. 

For those folks, who, do not want the Oyster Cracker or croutons, but prefer a thickened chowder, the use of a Bechamel Sauce is advised. This would undoubtedly seem a travesty of good chow-dah to some, but is put down here for authenticities sake. This author does not use it, as the 'taters will release their starch and give a good thickness to the chowder.

The above makes about 12 pounds of food.  Approximately 24 servings, depending on appetites. 

Flavored Vinegars

These recipes are from the Techno Chemical Receipt Book published in 1887. Several recipes call for processing the ingredients by trituration, q.v. at the wiki entry.

 Table Vinegars.

Anise Vinegar. 

Convert the following ingredients into a coarse powder: Anise seed 5 parts, caraway seed 3/5 part fennel and coriander seed each 1/3 part each pour 5 parts of alcohol and 45 parts of good strong vinegar over the powders, close the flask hermetically, and let the whole digest in a warm place for 6 to 8 days, shaking frequently. Then strain the liquid off, press out "the residue, filter the vinegar, and put it up in bottles. 

Aromatic Vinegar.

Chop up leaves of rosemary, sage, and peppermint each 3/5 part, cloves, zedoary, and angelica root each 1/8 part; place all in a suitable flask, into which also pour 30 parts of crude vinegar, let it macerate for 4 days, then press out and filter. The product is a clear fluid of a reddish-brown color.

Dragonswoort (Estragon or Tarragon) Vinegar.

Pick the young tender leaves of dragons wort (Artemisia dracunculus L.) when the first flower-buds appear. Bruise the leaves, place them in a suitable flask, pour good wine-vinegar over them, and let the whole stand for a few days. Then strain the vinegar through a cloth, filter, and bottle. The bottles must be filled entirely full, as other wise the vinegar will not keep.

Another Receipt.

Mix 1 1/2 parts of oil of dragonswort with 3000 parts of pure good vinegar, let the whole stand for a few days, and then filter the vinegar.

Compound Dragonswort Vinegar or Herb Table Vinegar. 

Comminute leaves of dragonswort 100 parts, bean leaves 25 parts, leaves of basil and marjoram each 12 1/2 parts, bay leaves and orris root each 25 parts, cloves 3 1/2 parts, cinnamon 6 1/2 parts, and shallots 25 parts. Put all in a demijohn, pour 700 to 750 parts of pure good vinegar over it, let it stand on a warm place; and digest 5 to 6 days, frequently agitating it. Then strain the vinegar through linen, press out the residue with the hands, acid 25 parts of alcohol, and filter. Keep the vinegar in well-corked bottles in a cool place.

Spiced Dragonswort Vinegar.

Cut up and treat as above leaves of dragonswort 100 parts, fresh lemon peel 40 parts, cinnamon and coriander seed each 13 1/2 parts, fennel seed 3 1/2 parts, cardamoms 4/5 part, shallots 25 parts, and vinegar 700 to 750 parts.

English Spiced Vinegar.

 I. Pour 400 parts of pure vinegar and 50 parts of strong alcohol over the following ingredients, previously pulverized: Cloves 25 parts, cassia bark, mace, and orange blossoms each 3 1/2 parts. Let the whole stand in a warm place for 1 week, then strain through a cloth, press out the residue, and filter. 

II. Mix oils of cloves 96 drops, bergamot 70 drops, and camphor 15 1/2 grains, triturated with 4 3/4 ounces of strong acetic acid and 15 drops of acetic acid. Add to this mixture 2 gallons of pure vinegar, mix thoroughly, let the whole stand for a few days, and then filter through blotting paper. This vinegar must be kept in well-closed bottles and in a cool place.

Effervescing Vinegar.

Dissolve 500 parts of loaf sugar in 5000 parts of water, add lemon juice and rind cut up in the proportion of 1 lemon to 1 pound of sugar, 1 1/2 parts of the best cinnamon, and 12 1/2 parts of beer-yeast thoroughly washed. Place the whole in a barrel, and after agitating thoroughly let it ferment at a temperature of 55° to 60° F. When fermentation has ceased the vinous fluid is strained, and mixed with 1000 parts of best wine-vinegar previously boiled up, and yeast in the proportion of 1 spoonful to 5 pounds of sugar. The fluid is then distributed in several earthenware pots and exposed to a temperature of 77° to 88° F., until it has been converted into strong vinegar. This, while remaining in the pots, is mixed with 200 parts of French brandy and after two days bottled in small bottles. To each pound of this vinegar are added 2/5 part of crystallized tartaric acid pulverized and 1/5 part of bicarbonate of sodium. The bottles, as soon as the respective portion of the mixture has been added to each, must be corked as quickly as possible, and then stored in a cool place.

Herb Vinegar as Prepared in the Northern Part of Germany.

Chop fine the leaves of marjoram and thyme each 13 1/3 parts, bean leaves 6 1/2 parts, leaves of mint, basil, and celery each 3 1/2 parts, and 1 1/2 parts of fresh shallots. Pour 600 to 700 parts of good vinegar over the herbs, and treat in the same manner as given for compound dragonswort vinegar. 

Herb Vinegar as Prepared on the Rhine.

Chop up leaves of fresh dragonswort and woodroof [sic] each 20 parts, borage 1 1/2 parts, fresh mint 3 1/3 parts. Pour 600 to 750 parts of good vinegar over them, and then proceed as given for compound dragonswort vinegar. (woodruff) Lemon Vinegar. Remove the rind from 5 to 6 fresh lemons, press out the juice and let it stand in a tall covered glass until clarified. Then pound the rinds to a paste and pour 1 gallon of good vinegar over it. Let it stand for a few days, then pour off the vinegar, mix it with the clear lemon juice, filter and bottle the vinegar.

Orange Vinegar.

Peel 5 to 6 fresh oranges, press out the juice in a tall glass, and let it stand covered to clarify. Free the rinds from the white parts, pound them to a paste and pour 1 gallon of good vinegar over it, and proceed om the same manner as given for lemon vinegar. Pine-apple Vinegar. This excellent vinegar soon loses its flavor, and it is therefore best to prepare a small quantity at a time and keep it in hermetically closed bottles. Bruise the slices of pine-apple and pour over them a considerable quantity of vinegar. Close the vessel as tightly as possible and let it stand 12 hours; after which pour off the vinegar and filter it.

Raspberry Vinegar.

Crush perfectly ripe raspberries to a paste, let it stand 24 to 36 hours; then put 1 pound of this paste into a jar, pour 1 1/2 to 2 gallons of vinegar over it, place it in a warm place, but not in the sun, and shake frequently. After standing for several days strain the mixture through a cloth, add 1 gill of alcohol, mix thoroughly, and filter the vinegar. The bottles should be entirely filled and kept in a cool place.

Strawberry Vinegar.

Mash thoroughly ripe strawberries, let the paste stand in a warm place for 24 hours, then press out the juice, bottle and let it stand for a few days to ferment and to allow the slimy constituents to separate. Then filter the juice and put it in well- closed glass bottles which should be scrupulously clean, where it will keep for a long time. When it is to be used for flavoring, add a sufficient quantity of it to good vinegar.

Vanilla Vinegar.

Triturate in a porcelain mortar 4 parts of vanilla bean cut up with some white sugar, add 2 parts each of pulverized cloves and cinnamon, put all in a flask and digest it with 30 parts of strong alcohol for several days. Then add 250 to 270 parts of good vinegar, let it stand for some time, shaking it frequently, then strain through a cloth and finally filter. This vinegar is usually colored red.

Vinaigre à la Bardin.

Chop up: Leaves of dragonswort 20 parts, bay leaves 10 parts, angelica root 6 1/2 parts, capers and anchovies each 10 parts, shallots 6 1/2 parts, and pour 150 parts of good vinegar over them. Let the whole stand for 3 days, shaking frequently, then strain through a cloth, press out the residue, and filter the vinegar.

Vinaigre à la Ravigote.

Leaves of dragonswort 25 parts, bay leaves 6 1/2 parts, capers 13 1/2 parts, anchovies cut up fine 26 1/2 parts, cloves and horseradish each 3 1.2 parts, white mustard seed pounded fine 4/5 part, shallots 13 1/2 parts, and good vinegar 300 parts. Proceed as above.