Wednesday, April 09, 2008


I am an avid fan of how food was made over 100 years ago. These three recipes are from 1887. I have changed the term "white mustard seeds" to reflect the current use of yellow. The other two kinds are brown or black.


Frankfort Mustard
1 # yellow mustard seed
1 # brown mustard seed
8 ozs. brown sugar
1 ounce cloves, powdered
2 ounces allspice, powdered
8 to 16 fl. ozs. white wine or white wine vinegar

Crush the yellow and brown seeds, a little at a time, in the food processor. Don't overprocess, try to leave some seeds whole. Mix all the dry ingredients and sieve. Add all that remains in the sieve into your work bowl with the finer ground ingredients. Add the liquid until you have the thickness you want. Jar.

Mustard de Maille
Moutarde de Maille

8 ozs. tarragon leaves, fresh
2 1/2 oz. basil leaves
2 ozs. bay leaves
4 ozs. rocambole
2 1/2 quarts vinegar, wine, 7% strength
1 oz. salt
7 1/2 pounds black mustard seed (approximately)

Put all in a glass gallon jar. Leave the lid on the jar very loosely until the aroma lessens. In a bain-marie, put in the gallon jar and raise the heat in the bain-marie as little as possible. Heat the jar for 4 days or 32 hours, with the lid loosely sealing the jar. It is perfectly acceptable to do this by heating, allowing to cool, and reheating, until the requisite time has passed, especially if you cannot devise a bain-marie large enough to hold 32 hours worth of water, as most of us cannot.

At the end of the time, add the salt, while the liquid is still warm (or hot). Grind the black mustard seeds and add them to make a thick paste. You probably won't use the entire 7 1/2 pounds. Jar. Makes a terrific gift.

Cook's note: according to the original recipe this mustard was to be stored in earthen jars. You still see the brand name of this mustard put in ceramic jars.

English Spiced Vinegar

400 milliliters vinegar, white
50 milliliters alcohol (see Note below)
3.3 milliliters cloves, ground
3.3 milliliters mace, ground
3.3 milliliters orange blossoms

Put all the ingredients in a wine bottle Cork, keep in a warm place for 7 days. Strain through a paper coffee filter. Bottle.

Note: You may have to substitute 100 milliliters of 100 proof vodka. If you use vodka, the dry ingredients should be increased to 4 milliliters, each.

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